With the right belay device a small weak climber can easily arrest the fall of a much heavier partner.
Atc belay device how to use.
A more compact lighter version of our versatile atc guide the atc alpine guide is built for smash and grab ascents in the mountains.
It is designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort.
Figure 8 devices are primarily used for rappelling however they can be rigged to belay a leader or a top rope climber.
To use an atc belay device a loop of rope is threaded through one of the slots.
Simply pull the brake strands through as the climber moves up.
Shaped like the number eight they have one larger and one smaller hole.
You can set up guide mode as shown with one rope or two.
This is the main body of the belay device.
When rappelling you feed a bight bend of rope through the large hole and loop.
When belaying a single rope you can use any one of the rope slots.
In the old days people belayed off shoulders hips and around waists.
Anatomy of an atc.
Figure 8 belay device.
A belay device is a mechanical piece of climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying.
At just 73 grams this featherweight belay rappel device is optimized for ropes between 8 1 and 8 5 millimeters in diameter yet works with ropes from 6 9 to 9mm.
They can be used as a normal belay device too.
The belayer uses a belay device to catch a fall and to lower a climber from the top of the route.
Even if you belay or atc device is unretrievable you can still rappel down safely.
These are the openings in the belay device to pass the ropes through most atcs have 2 rope slots which allow them to belay half or twin ropes.
The carabiner is then attached to the belay loop of the belayer s or rappeller s climbing harness.
The atc guide climbing belay rappel device by black diamond is lightweight and easy to use offering smooth handling while you are climbing to your greatest h.
Alternatively you can use a munter hitch which can be done with the locking of a single carabiner with the climbing rope.
You can either do a single rope rappel using a single belay device with your partner.
Modern technology has given us many belay devices but the atc and the grigri are the most commonly used.
Then a carabiner is passed through the loop of rope and the keeper loop of the atc.